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Putting heart into fashion

[img]http://www.thehindu.com/multimedia/dynamic/02559/25FR-BIBI_2559168g.jpg[/img] -

September 25, 2015 Bangladeshi designer and ethical fashion icon Bibi Russell tells Kunal Ray that her mission is to use culture and creativity to change the lives of the craftspeople of her country.

Perhaps calling Bibi Russell only a fashion designer would be inadequate. Familiar to fashion acolytes across the globe, Bibi�s practice, rooted in her native Bangladesh, speaks strongly also of her social commitment to empower the weavers and craftspeople of her strife-ridden country.

The first woman from Bangladesh to study at the London College of Fashion, she later became a super-model and ramp favourite for the likes of Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Armani, to name a few. In 1994, Bibi quit her international modelling career and relocated to Bangladesh to start Bibi Productions � Fashion for Development, her label. She has since worked tirelessly for the promotion and survival of indigenous art and craft practices, created jobs in Bangladesh, and instilled a sense of pride in the country�s products. Excerpts from an interview:

Your work is often labelled as quirky. Is this an attempt to stereotype alternative fashion?

I make world clothing that exemplifies the global village mindset. I design ready-to-wear clothes. Ultimately, I combine fashion with traditional craftsmanship; aid empowerment and commitment. My collection is made exclusively of handmade fabrics, crafts, rickshaw art and recycled products. This is what I have always aspired to do and I hold this fashion with a consciousness close to my heart. Call it whatever you like.

Your comments on �Fashion for Development�, which has been your lifelong agenda.

�Fashion for Development� is a profound statement that has a fundamental importance for the craftspeople and weavers of Bangladesh and all over the world. This is why I became a designer. It was launched in 1996 at the UNESCO headquarters in Paris, supported by the former Director-General of UNESCO, Mr. Federico Mayor, and the Queen of Spain. �Fashion for Development� works for the survival of humanity, a lift-up in human dignity, and the efforts can transform the future of innumerable artisans, triggering significant opportunities in the rural economy of the developing countries.

It is about using culture and creativity to eradicate poverty. We are not doing charity � that�s demeaning. I am amazed by the talent of weavers and craftspeople in the villages of Bangladesh. It has been my effort to empower them through their produce, to instil a sense of conviction and pride in their skills and importantly, economic independence. Also, it is a way of life that I have embraced and not mere sloganeering... Everything I wear is made by my villager friends in Bangladesh.

Your practice as a designer is rooted in the textile traditions of your country, but created primarily for a western clientele�

I am living my dream of saving indigenous craftspeople and practices. I want to ensure their socio-economic development. Their children should have access to healthcare and education. We have more than 160 million people in Bangladesh. It is important to sell these products in the local market too and I make sure that happens. Similarly, success and recognition in the global market is paramount. My designs and colours for the global market are different from what I sell in Bangladesh.

Your detractors might say you became an international icon because the West loves to patronise indigenous art and fashion from Third World countries�

International icon? I am glad to hear that! I am on a mission and the journey so far has not been easy. There is so much to be done, but I will persevere. I derive satisfaction from what I do. My co-workers in the villages love me unconditionally and that is my greatest asset.

Has Bangladesh embraced your fashion?

Of course! My people have been supportive. It has been a challenge, but gradually there is more acceptance for my designs in the local markets.

Do you also work with Indian crafts?

With pleasure. I do a lot of work in many places in India and I salute the Indian artisans who have magical fingers. I am currently working in parts of Rajasthan and Assam.

Your products are recycled from newspaper, flour packets etc.

For seven years, I have been making products out of recycled material. I made recycled fabrics out of silk and cotton wastage. Furniture out of recycled plastic and bangles from recycled silk yarn. Every week I am engaged in developing new products from waste material.

Rickshaw art is an integral part of your fashion design. How did this happen?

I love rickshaw art. Do you know that my rickshaw art products (trays, bindis and spectacles) are best sellers? These artists are geniuses. They never went to an art institution or received any formal training. Since childhood, I have been fascinated by rickshaw art. It has served as a major inspiration. In fact, I was convinced that the artists could overcome financial hardships through art. I always wanted to work with them and it has organically integrated into my practice.

Your favourite fashion icon?

Rabindranath Tagore, undoubtedly.

You are a voracious reader. What are you reading currently?

Wings of Fire, Abdul Kalam's autobiography. I have immense respect for him.

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